All AVL looms are produced at our headquarters in Chico, California, where the company has been based since 1980. If you'd like to visit our facilities please contact us prior to schedule a visit. We'd love to show you around! To learn more about Chico you can visit this website: http://www.chico.ca.us/.
AVL transitioned to computerized manufacturing using CAD/CAM and CNC (Computer Numeric Control) machinery in the late 1990s. We make a very high percentage of our parts using CNC. There are machines in both the wood shop and metal shop. CNC machinery allows for precision cutting of all parts and is both safer and more precise. All parts are hand-finished by our team of craftsmen. Each loom is built to order to our customers' specifications. We assemble and test each loom before shipping.
AVL looms are mostly made with a variety of hardwoods, all of which are kiln-dried to improve stability and workability.
Ash is our primary wood for nearly all loom parts. Ash is becoming endangered due to the emerald ash borer beetle, which is why we shifted to sustainably forested ash over a decade ago. Ash falls closest to hardrock maple in strength, but is closer in density to oak. It has a nice, light coloring, somewhat similar to hardrock maple, but with bit more pronounced grain, especially with the heartwood. Its physical properties make for a very strong loom frame, and visually, a strikingly beautiful loom.
Poplar is used for very long wood pieces with a need for a highly straight and true features. Mostly, you'll find poplar on the longest of our A-Series beater races. Poplar is light in color with very little grain.
Black walnut is used for accent pieces, such as tool holders. Black walnut is actually quite strong, nearly matching ash in physical properties. However, we mostly choose black walnut for it beautiful contrast to the lighter coloring of ash.
For wide, flat pieces with important structural requirements such as the dobby back, we use engineered birch plywood, or birch ply as it is commonly called. You might ask why not just use hardwoods for all the wood in a loom. The answer is simply that hardwoods are generally not available in the widths needed to make these wide, thin parts. Birch ply, on the other hand, is an incredibly strong, very stable wood product that has proven to be excellent for looms (and also many kitchen cabinets!). Being very light in color and with almost no grain, it fits very nicely with ash.
Yes, the Professional Dobby Rug Looms now use steel for the crossmembers on all eight foot (2.43M) looms. Looms ten feet (3M) and wider are now made primarily of steel. Our TEL Jacquard loom is also made to CE specifications and is made entirely of steel.
Not at all. With the exception of Industrial Dobby Loom and Jacquard looms, AVL looms are normally assembled by the customer. AVL looms are generally shipped in a partially assembled state. All of the so-called "hard stuff" is already done. Dobbies go out whole. So do the Spring Lever Systems, Harness Pulley Supports, and Beams. The Tension Box and Bobbin Winder also go out fully assembled. The looms come with a fully illustrated manual and generally take about a day to assemble. There are also several assembly videos on our YouTube channel. If you would like AVL to come out for an in-home installation, we do have a service option available.
All but the oldest AVL looms have their own serial numbers. A loom's serial numbers is located on a nameplate that was generally placed in the center of the upper horizontal crossmember on the Harness Pulley Support. The sitting weaver can usually look up and see the nameplate. The other predominant location for the nameplate is on the side of the dobby head facing the front of the loom.
Contact us with the loom serial number and we'll tell you when the loom was produced and its original equipment.
Most AVL serial numbers have five integers, such as 01234. If your loom has a number other than five integers -- either longer or shorter -- then you have a collector's item; most likely built in the late 1970's or early 1980's. There were also some very early looms produced without serial numbers. These would have been made in 1976-77. Due to the type of wood and finish, AVL's experienced staff can usually tell these looms apart with one look at a picture.
Before his affiliation with AVL, Jim Ahrens hand-built a small number of looms in the years between 1950-1976. These will generally display a plaque designating it as an Ahrens loom. Some Ahrens looms are very similar to AVL looms. However, most parts are not interchangeable with the corresponding AVL loom. The similar looms include: production dobby loom, countermarch production dobby loom, home loom, folding dobby loom, and a loom made with a pivoting front/rear beam. Read more about Jim's looms at this wonderful website curated by Peggy Ostercamp.
A-Series: Our current model. The "A" stands for the A in AVL, Jim Ahrens. A-Series looms come in 8, 16, 24, and 40 harness models and have replaced the old Production Dobby Looms and Technical Dobby Looms.
AVL40: Full frame loom of the PDL/TDL style, 40 harness dobby looms. Built from 2000 to 2003. Available over the years in widths ranging from 30" to 72".
PDL: Production Dobby Looms: 16 harness dobby looms. Built from 1977 to 2003. Available over the years in widths ranging from 30" to 72".
TDL: Technical Dobby Looms: 24 harness dobby looms. Built from 1987 to 2003. Originally, we added "technical" features to the TDL which differentiated them from the other looms, but over the years, all of the "technical" aspects migrated to the Production Dobby Loom, so that when they went out of production, the only difference was the number of harnesses. Available over the years in widths ranging from 30" to 72".
FDL: Folding Dobby Loom: 16 harness dobby loom. In production from 1982 to the present. Be aware, however, that in the 80's, we call them Production Dobby Looms too, differentiated from what we than called FULL-FRAME Production Dobby Looms. FDLs have been built in 24", 30", 36", 40", and 48" widths, although the vast majority are 40".
SDL: Studio Dobby Loom: 1997 to present. Available in 16 and 24 harnesses. SDLs only come with a Compu-Dobby II and have been built in 20" and 30" widths.
IDL: Industrial Dobby Loom. 1992 to present. Our automated looms. 24 harness only. Available in 24", 40", and 60" weaving widths.
UDL: Ultimate Dobby Loom, another name for the AVL40 discussed above.
WDL: Workshop Dobby Loom (a.k.a. The California Traveler). 2001 to present. Available in 8, 16, or 24 harnesses.
BML: Basic Modular Loom. 1980 to present. Starts in four harness, six treadle mode and can be expanded to become whatever the current dobby loom is or was. For example, a BML with four shafts purchased in 1982 could, conceivably, still be upgraded to a sixteen shaft Production Dobby loom without the necessity to drill a single hole.
Maybe you'd like to trade yours in for a new one. Or maybe you simply need the space. Whatever the reason, selling your AVL loom is a big decision. How and at what price will you sell your loom? These are the most difficult questions to consider. Selling your loom back to AVL is a great way to simplify and shorten the process.
AVL sells many factory reconditioned looms every year. With the thousands of long-lasting AVLs out in the world, reconditioning looms has become an important business for us. Once you contact us, we will agree on the price. Then, we'll send you the necessary boxes and arrange for a carrier to pick it up. We usually pay for all shipping and once the loom is inspected for correctness we'll cut your check. Clean, easy, and fast.
And you know that once the loom is in AVL's hands, it will receive the most knowledgeable and thorough reconditioning possible with the expectation of finding a welcome new home.
Call us at 800-626-9615 extension 233 or fill out our online Selling Your AVL contact form.
Yes, check out our Financing section. We require a full credit check and will determine the interest rate and payback period based on several factors. Typically we still require a 50% deposit upon the order.
Yes, if your warranty has expired, or if you have purchased a loom from a private party (warranty is non-transferable), you may consider paying for extended annual support. Please contact us for current rates.
If you've purchased a second hand AVL loom in the private market, you can register the loom in your name simply by contacting us and telling us the loom serial number (which can be found on the little metal plaque across the front cross member beam).
It's as easy as sending us a message or picking up the phone (toll free: 800-626-9615, or 530.893.4915)!
If you would like to order parts for your loom, please have your loom's Serial number handy. Other useful information would be your loom's weaving width, dobby type (or treadle if applicable) and batch/year made. Whenever possible, refer to your loom's manual when trying to describe which parts you need, and remember that digital pictures are also very useful.
We accept Visa, MasterCard, Discover, and American Express credit cards, as well as money orders and checks, and bank wire transfers for orders exceeding $1,500. Also we accept PayPal. We will also work with a Letter of Credit for a small fee if you so desire.
Most small stock items on our website will ship within 3-5 days. Looms, loom parts and other items (such as Bobbin Winders and Warping Wheels) can take weeks if not in stock. Although we strive to mark these items when they are out of stock, please contact us to inquire about specific items if timing is a concern.
If you order through our website, your credit card will be charged for the full amount of your order up front.
If you order direct through one of our sales reps via phone or email, we have other payment options available for you. For orders of $2000 or more, we ask that you pay a 50% deposit and then the remaining balance when the order is ready to ship. For orders under $2000, we typically won't ask for payment until the order is ready to ship. We also offer financing.
When shipping rates are requested for estimates or sales orders we'll do our best to provide an accurate estimate of the shipping charges. However, actual shipping charges are not applied until the order is ready to ship.
Yes, Sezzle is safe. It's a third party payment plan app that lets you make interest free payments on product purchases in our store. You have to signup for a Sezzle account an reoccurring payments are made to them.
The single most important thing you can do to extend the life of your loom, and preserve its operation, is tighten the bolts that hold its frame together. These will loosen over time, due to changes in its environment and to your own creative exertions. A loom which is allowed to become loose-jointed will certainly cost you weaving time, perhaps affect the quality of your work, and definitely become older than its years.
There are several mechanisms on your loom which will benefit from the occasional light application of an appropriate lubricant. Not all lubricants are suitable in the weaving environment. Machine oils and greases, for example, may provide plenty of slick, but they also capture yarn dust and will, over time, actually impede the action of your loom.
Unless you have an AVL Air Shuttle or other pneumatic accessory, you will have only one filter on your loom, and then only if you have a Compu-Dobby. This is the fan filter and it performs two functions: it cools the unit and it removes dust from the air before it is drawn into the fan.
a) Compu-Dobbies I
The filter is easily overlooked on our early generation Compu-Dobbies because it is hard to access. The filter on older units is located on the back of the unit, below the solenoids. This means you must remove the CD to clean it. If the filter becomes clogged, it will restrict air flow, heat will build-up in the box, and sensitive electronic components may fail and will need to be replaced. If you do not feel comfortable doing this, we recommend that you remove the filter altogether. It's better to operate with no filter, than with a clogged filter.
b) Compu-Dobbies II
In our Compu-Dobby II design, we corrected the access problem.
The filter here is extremely easy to find: it sits atop the solenoid box.
In either case, remove the snap-on plastic cover that fits over the fan vent. Remove, rinse, and dry the foam filament. Replace. It is imperative that you clean this filter regularly. We recommend every two weeks, depending on how much you use the loom and what type of yarn you use.
Two types of harness systems can be found on most AVLs; harnesses for polyester heddles and harnesses for metal heddles. Each harness structure is distinctly different.
Harness systems for polyester heddles utilize transverse harness sticks, top and bottom and frequently have harness wire or rod at each stick end loosely tying the top and bottom sticks together.
The harness system for metal heddles utilizes a rigid structure with top and bottom harness sticks firmly connected by vertical struts. Heddles are suspended via heddle rods at top and bottom running parallel to the harness sticks. The metal heddle harness structure is the same, whether twisted wire or flat steel heddles are used.
In all cases the harnesses are hung from the top via harness cables and stabilized from the bottom by a series of spring-tensioned levers, Spring Levers, or in some cases by springs. These hold the harnesses down and prevent your heddles from floating.
Some weavers like metal heddles because they believe they are easier to thread; others prefer the lighter and quieter polyester heddles. On occasion you will find that one or more of your harnesses will misbehave. That is more likely to happen with harnesses with Polyester Heddles. There are a finite number of things that can cause these problems.
Common Issues and Solutions:
One or more top harness stick collapses; it assumes a diagonal angle and one leg of the harness cable from which it is suspended goes slack.
How to fix it
Your heddles are bunched together towards the center of the harness or on one side only. For polyester heddle-type harnesses, the heddles are actually part of the harness structure.
Move a few heddles to each end of your harness sticks; just to the inside of the harness wires that connect the top and bottom sticks. That way your harnesses will be balanced.
The harness cable supporting the shaft has come out of its pulleys at the top of the loom.
Trace the cable back through its pulleys in the Harness Pulley Support and make sure that the cable is properly seated. Check the action of the Dobby Cable as well. Make sure that it moves easily up and down. If the Dobby Cable seems to bind, check for debris in the hole where it comes through the Dobby Top. You may need to use a very thin piece of wire to dislodge accumulated yarn dust or other debris.
The heddles float; they are lifted upwards by the warp thread when you tension the warp and your shed is not even or not large enough.
How to fix it
The tension in your warp is greater than the tension in the springs that hold the harnesses down.
Take up a link or two in the chain that spans the Harness Spring Levers for that particular harness. Check the result and take-up more links if you feel you need more hold-down tension. Do not try to make all chains the same size. The size will depend on how much tension is required for each harness depending again on the number of threads going through that harness.
One or more harnesses that are supposed to raise don't.
How to fix it
1) Left treadle isn't being pressed all the way down.
Concentrate on getting both treadles all the way through their travel.
2) Dobby arm out of adjustment.
Realign the dobby arm according to the assembly instructions.
3) Dobby cables out of finger slots.
Rearrange the cables according to the assembly instructions.
Harnesses don't raise properly.
How to fix it
1) Harness cables have been hooked to the wrong harness.
Rearrange the cables.
2) Chains from the spring levers have been hooked to the wrong harnesses.
Rearrange the cables.
3) Copper hooks on the spring levers have been bent.
Straighten the hooks with pliers.
How to fix it
1) Heddles are not distributed evenly over the harness sticks.
Redistribute the heddles evenly on both sides from the center of the harness sticks.
2) Harness wire that connects the harness sticks has jumped out and got stuck in the heddles of the other harness.
Pull the wire out, make sure it does not catch any heddles, and replace it to just connect the top and the bottom harness sticks. If you have a large number of extra heddles on each side, you might want to tie them in bundles to prevent getting caught by the harness wire.
Depending upon the type of loom, tension may refer to separate warp and cloth tensions, or a combined warp/cloth tension. The distinguishing mechanism between these is AVL's unique "sticky" beam. If your loom has a stick beam, the loom will have separate warp and cloth tensions and tensioning systems.
If you need to troubleshoot your cloth tension, visit the next section, Troubleshooting Cloth System.
Warp tension is established with either of three mechanisms: the Tension Arm assembly, the slipping brake tensioning system and the locking brake tensioning system. The Tension Arm assembly and the slipping brake tensioning system are both forms of automatic tensioners. While the slipping brake system is smaller and simpler, it also tends to be more difficult to tune and keep in tune. Not all AVL looms can accommodate a Tension Arm assembly.
If you look at the Tension Arm assembly, you'll note that it consists of an arm, on which slides a weight; and a cable which travels over a plywood pulley, to a large wooden drum on your Warp Beam, and finally to an anchor bolt on the loom frame. Worked into this cable is a loopy set of cords with a plastic lock. This is the Tension Tie-Up Adjusting Assembly. In contrast, the slipping brake tensioner eliminates all but the Tension Tie-Up Adjusting Assembly.
There are two things you need to understand in order to use these systems to their best advantage. On the Tension Arm assembly, warp tension is established with the weight and is maintained with the tie-up. On the slipping brake system, both are done with the tie-up.
As an analogy, think of tying your shoes. When you make that first cross of laces and snug them up, you are establishing tension. If you like your shoes tight, you'll pull harder on the laces. At that point, you've set your tension. But, if you were to simply walk off without finishing the knot, you'd spend the rest of the day re-snugging your laces. But instead you'll tie a bow - this will maintain the tension you put in the laces. So with the Tension Arm Assembly. The weight does what that first part of a bow knot does - it lets you set tension. The tie-up does what the finish knot does, it keeps the tension constant.
Optimal Performance: If your tension system is working properly,
You will have precisely the tension you want.
The Tension Arm will ride about horizontally.
You will feel even tension when you draw your warp forward, and
This tension will remain constant.
Check out the following common causes and solutions:
Your Warp Beam just won't hold tension, the arm is down -- doesn't matter where your weight is or how tightly you've adjusted the cord, you just can't get enough tension.
How to fix it
1) Your Tension Tie-Up has loosened.
Re-adjust the tie-up and either tie a bow in the cord ends or bind it tightly with a double wrap of cord.
2) You have mis-routed your brake cable. If you have just installed the system, disconnected your Brake Cable, to move the loom, or warp the beam, you may very well have incorrectly replaced it.
Review the cable routing as shown in the appropriate figure in the Assembly Section of your manual. Be careful, though, there are different illustrations depending on whether your beam is in the upper or lower position.
3) You may have warped your beam backwards. Go to your manual and consult that figure in the Weaving Section which illustrates how your warp should be routed.
If you did warp your beam backwards, you will need to reverse your tension cable. Unhook the buckle, loosen the cable, and wind it in the opposite direction. This is not a permanent fix. Use it only to weave off the warp you wound backwards.
4) The sandpaper on your Cloth Beam is not grabbing the warp and pulling it around as it should.
Check the first symptom listed under Troubleshooting Cloth Storage System. If the warp still won't adhere to the Cloth Beam, you'll very likely need to add SoftGrip or another kind of beam cover in order to get satisfactory warp tension.
5) The surface of the Brake Drum has become polished and no longer offers sufficient friction to grab and hold the Brake Cable.
Disconnect and unwind the Brake Cable. Lightly sand the surface of the groove in the Brake Drum with your #220 sandpaper. Replace the cable (but be sure about its routing!)
The tension arm rises to a steep upward angle when you advance.
How to fix it
Your tie-up is too tight.
Loosen your tie-up.
The Tension Arm periodically rises and then lets go, Wham!
How to fix it
This is a clear indication that the wood grain in the groove of the Brake Drum has become swollen. If you've had a recent elevation in humidity, it's almost surely the case. The grain has become so sticky that it won't let the cable slide smoothly over the drum.
Remove the Brake Cable and sand the raised grain with #220 sandpaper until it is again smooth to the touch. There will be two places on the drum in particular that need attention; these are where the end-grain is exposed and will be opposite one another.
Excessive tension on the warp.
How to fix it
1) Weight on the tension arm is in a too far out position
Adjust the position of your weight on the tension arm.
2) Too much weight on the tension arm.
Use a smaller weight on the tension arm.
3) The tension rope has gotten crossed over itself on the warp beam brake drum.
If you have found that the cloth isn't moving backwards onto the Storage Roller
There are two kinds of Cloth Storage Systems used on AVLs: one is used on our larger Production Looms, the other on our Folding Looms. They are similar in that both rely on the action of a dead-fall weight to create the energy needed to roll your cloth onto a rear mounted Cloth Storage Beam - that is, they harness gravity to do work. And both systems move your cloth to this beam automatically; you need only wind the weight back up when it's reached the limit of its travel. Even though they are very similar in principle, they look somewhat different. In this class, we will pay particular attention to the system used on Production Looms.
The problem is that you have two drums that turn in opposite directions simultaneously. The best antidote here is to come to know the system so well that you can visualize its operation at any moment.
If the cloth isn't moving backwards onto the Storage Roller, try one of these solutions:
How to Fix It
The weight is at the bottom of its track and is no longer pulling on the cord, so there's no energy left to roll cloth onto the Storage Roller.
Wind the weight to the top position. If the weight does not want to stay in the top position, check if you forgot to insert the pull pin when you last had the Cloth Storage Roller off or the pin has fallen out. Replace the pin.
The cord on the Cloth Storage Drum at the rear slackens, unspools, and leaves quite a mess. The cord at the Cloth Take-Up Drum in the front may even snarl and wrap around its axle.
You will achieve the best result, if you simply reinstall the system. First, locate the instructions in your manual, in the Assembly section, that pertain to installing your Cloth Storage Drum. Begin at the place where you are instructed to "Route the Cloth Storage Cord".
The Cloth Storage Spring has come unhooked at the loom frame or the spring has broken.
Lock the weight up. Go to the Cloth Storage Drum at the back of the loom, pull the pin, and turn the drum clockwise: If it seems not to offer any resistance, remove the drum and examine the spring (spring has hooks on both ends). If the spring is hooked over the pin inside the drum, and has a corresponding hook at its other end, replace the drum, taking great care to engage the free hook on the pin in the side frame. If either hook is missing, the spring needs to be replaced.
The Clutch Bearing in the center of the Cloth Storage Drum is malfunctioning.
You need to replace the Cloth Storage Ratchet Assembly and Clutch Bearing. Call AVL to order parts.
To determine if this is the problem, with the pull pin in place, try turning the Cloth Storage Drum lightly clockwise. You should not be able to move it without moving the cloth storage beam.
AVLs are designed with a shed which exactly meets the need; not too wide, not too narrow. And there's of course a reason for this precision. Raising harnesses higher than you need may give you a larger shed, but it's also a waste of time and effort. You only need enough warp separation for the shuttle to pass freely. However, because the shed on AVLs is so precisely calibrated, you do need to be sure that you're getting all that the loom can deliver.
There are three likely causes for restricted sheds:
How to Fix It
1.) Shuttle Race is too high or low. When your beater is pushed all the way away from you, your warp threads should just be gently touching the race.
If the race is too high, you'll need to lower it. If you see a gap between the bottom of the warp and the top of the race, bring it up! On the overhead beaters, there is an adjustment screw at the top of the beater hanging arm. On the bottom swing beater, there is a same kind of adjustment screw, but at the bottom of the beater.
2.) Treadle cables fell off the pulleys.
Replace the treadle cables so they go over the pulleys.
3.) Dobby Cable Turnbuckle is out of adjustment.
You'll need a helper to check this. Have him watch the travel of the Dobby Arm in the slot on the right side of the Dobby while you treadle the loom. Do not have any harnesses engaging. The arm should travel all the way to the top of the slot and to the bottom. If it does not go all the way to the bottom, check if the dobby arm stop is not blocking the movement. If there is a pin in that place, pull it out If it is not, you'll need to tighten or loosen the turnbuckle at the side of the loom.
If your shuttle is flying off the track or your fabric is being beaten tighter on one side, or you have a diagonal beat/fell line rather than horizontal see below.
How to Fix It
1) Shuttle boxes are out of adjustment.
a) Single Box Flyshuttle: Bridge the Shuttle Race and Shuttle Box with a ruler or other straight edge. They should be in perfect alignment. If one is lower than the other, loosen the Shuttle Box and reposition it. If you need help, go to the installation instructions in your manual.
b) Double or Four Box Flyshuttle: In the same way, check the position of each of your shelves relative to the race. If you have a problem, make the necessary adjustment at the turnbuckle in the cable that attaches to the shift handle; bring the shelves up or down. You may need to loosen the brass screws (motion limiters) top and bottom of the box carriages in order to create enough room to make this adjustment. Be sure to retighten them once you've corrected the elevation problem.
2) Your shuttle is hitting the end of the reed.
Insert small shims in the grooves that hold the reed into the race and beater top so that the end of the reed is deflected backwards.
3) Tensioner in your shuttle is not adjusted.
The advantage of an end-feed shuttle is that it allows you to tension the feed of your yarn. Most shuttles of this design have adjustable tensioners. Be sure yours is set to match the characteristics of the yarn used. Also, the tensioner opening on the side of the flyshuttle should be facing the reed. This way if the yarn does snag it pulls the shuttle towards the reed and not off. We try to avoid actual flying shuttles.
4) Bobbins not wound consistently.
If it's soft on the end and the wraps collapse and pull into one another, you will have to wind it again. Use an AVL Bobbin-Winding Guide.
If one side of your fabric is beaten more tightly than the other (even when you are holding the beater in the middle), or if you have a diagonal beat/fell line rather than horizontal, your beater may be out of alignment.
To check, push your beater all the way back against the Beater Bumper Blocks, it should strike both sides at exactly the same time. If it doesn't, you'll need to rack the beater.
If the dobby skips, dobby head jams, dobby chain or dobby doesn't advance or the last few harnesses will not change pattern or some combination of last and current pick harnesses are raised
How to Fix It
a) Pressing too hard or too quickly on the treadles.
Press the treadles with a smooth, rhythmical motion.
b) Cable turnbuckle out of adjustment.
Adjust according to the assembly instructions.
Dobby head jams
a) Dobby chain not brought out over the top of the lower roller.
Reverse the dobby and turn by hand to get the dobby chain out.
b) Dobby cable turnbuckle out of adjustment.
Adjust the turnbuckle according to the assembly instructions.
Dobby chain does not advance
Detent wheel on the dobby head is loose.
Contact AVL Looms customer service for advice on correcting this problem.
Dobby does not advance, last few harnesses will not change pattern or some combination of last and current pick harnesses are raised
Left Treadle not fully depressed. If you do not fully depress the Left Treadle each time you lift, you will experience problems with your harnesses. Because the Left Treadle is unweighted, it's easy to forget that you need to do this. However, this treadle does something very important - it releases the harnesses that were engaged for the previous pick, but only in the last fraction of its stroke. So, if you seem to be experiencing harness lifting problems, your use of the Left Treadle is the first thing to suspect.
Fully depress the left treadle with each shed change.
"The best way to troubleshoot a Compu-Dobby II equipped AVL is the "half method." In this instance, the components of the AVL Compu-Dobby II system are the computer box, the computer solenoid dobby box, the dobby fingers, the cabling, and the treadles. Since only shaft 13 is refusing to cooperate, the focus of the investigation can narrow down to the computer box, the computer solenoid dobby box, dobby finger # 13, and the cables for shaft 13.
To begin, turn off all power to the Compu-Dobby system. Get out your manual, and go to the section on changing your manual dobby for a Compu-Dobby (even if your AVL came with a Compu-Dobby the manual still has this section). Read the portion about how to remove the old manual dobby head and insert the Compu-Dobby box to orient yourself to the components I'm going to be discussing next.
Go to the side of the loom with the dobby box. Note that the computer solenoid box's pillow blocks are held in place by two retainer plates on either side of the dobby box. In the middle of the retainer plate there is a set screw with a nut. With a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the two retainer plates. Pull the computer solenoid box towards you. If you have a helper, have the helper hold the computer solenoid box. Do not disconnect any cables from the computer solenoid box.
Visually and physically inspect both the back end of the computer solenoid box (solenoid 13 in particular) and dobby fingers (# 13 in particular). There should be a minimum of dust and dirt. The dobby finger should move freely. Now check the cables running from the dobby arm up through and out of the dobby box. Does cable 13 have it's silver ball? Is it's silver ball the same size as the rest? Check the dobby arm. Is the slot where cable 13 goes in straight and narrow? If the answer to any of these questions is no, then you have cabling, or the slot portion of your dobby arm, to replace. Now, check the internal dobby head pulley. It is the pulley located in the top right-hand corner inside the dobby box.
Next, turn the solenoid box so you can see the solenoids. Turn on the Compu-Dobby. Watch all of the solenoids fire (move out and back in) in sequence. Did solenoid #13 behave as the rest or did it refuse to move? If it did not fire, then that solenoid has frozen up and needs to be cleaned/replaced.
If everything so far looks good, then replace the computer solenoid box into the dobby head (spring first, pillow block on the solenoid box next, then the retainer plate). Tighten the screws down on the retainer plate. Make a straight draw test draft with your computer and send it to the Compu-Dobby. With your helper treadling and you analyzing the action of the Compu-Dobby, watch and listen as shaft 1 raises, then lowers, shaft 2 raises, then lowers, etc., paying particular attention to shaft 13. Did the solenoid fire? Did the finger move? Did the cable get pushed into the slot on the dobby arm? Did the dobby arm "catch and hold" the cable (the silver ball should be at the bottom of the slot in the dobby arm)? Did the dobby arm then successfully pull down on the cable? Did the cables to shaft 13 move? Did shaft 13 raise? If so, then problem solved. If not, now you have a great deal of info to pass along to AVL."
With all its benefits, the Compu-Dobby III comes with a new learning curve and thus a different set of troubleshooting techniques.
Compu-Dobby III Installation/Troubleshooting/Adjustment Guide
The Compu-Dobby III has been factory adjusted and tested to operate with the matching Dobby Head. Both assemblies work as a set, and no necessary mechanical or electrical adjustments (aside from rotating the connection between the Berkeley Snaps and the Harness Cables as discussed below) should be required.
In the event of any Compu-Dobby III servicing (repair or upgrade) some sections may necessitate dis-assembly or replacement, in which case, minor mechanical adjustments may be needed. This troubleshooting guide will attempt to cover all potential misalignment problems and descriptions on how to correct discrepancies.
The following excerpts from our loom manual will guide the operator on the installation, troubleshooting and adjustment procedures relative to potential setup problems with AVL’s Compu-Dobby® III.
Here are the most common issues and their solutions:
No Weaving Information
If your computer does not send the first pick and seems totally unable to talk to your Compu-Dobby here are some areas to review:
USB to Serial Adapter software not installed
Incompatible USB to Serial Adapter
Computer "assigned" port and the weaving software "chosen" port do not match.
Bad serial cable
Bad serial port on computer
Bad RS-232 interface on the Compu-Dobby
The solutions to these issues are as follows:
Install the USB to Serial Adapter software and ensure that the assigned port is within the range allowable by the weaving software. Staying within COM1-7 is usually safe. Please refer to your weaving software manual to determine how many and what COM ports are allowable.
Purchase a compatible adapter. For the Mac, you must use a high speed adapter. AVL has qualified Keyspan and Cool Gear adapters and sells them.
Verify "assigned" port through the Device Manager or USB to Serial Adapter software, then match it up in the weaving software.
Buy new serial cable. The RS-232 serial cable is readily available at most computer stores and through AVL.
Purchase PCI Serial card, new computer or USB to Serial Adapter if the computer is equipped with USB ports. All of these solutions are readily available at most computer stores.
Send the Compu-Dobby to AVL for repair. However, before you send us your Compu-Dobby, please contact our customer support to ensure we know its coming. Please notify Lucinda if you are sending it in for repair. There is a standard fee for Compu-Dobby diagnostics and we will provide a quote for your approval prior to doing any work. Please note that AVL will not re-use your Compu-Dobby packaging if it is substandard or significantly damaged upon arrival. Our standard crating fee applies to all Compu-Dobby repairs.
Compu-Dobby Doesn't Advance
If your Compu-Dobby receives and executes the first pick, but fails to advance to the second pick, the answer is not a communication problem. Rather, the issue lies in the arm/slide plate up/down sensor.
The solution depends up the Compu-Dobby. Click on your Compu-Dobby, below, to view possible solutions:
The arm position sensor, located in the Eye-Case, is triggered by light. Bright light can fool the sensor. Low light can also cause problems. If the loom is in bright light, where for example sun light is falling directly on the arm near the sensor, move the loom or filter the light. If there insufficient light, tape a white piece of paper onto the arm right in front of the sensor.
If this fails, the arm position sensor or the Compu-Dobby may require repair. Before contacting us, it is always wise to check that your cables were properly connected.
The arm position sensor, again located in the Eye-Case, is triggered by a magnet. This sensor type is a Hall Effects Sensor. Here are the potential causes:
The Eye-Case electrical connection is plugged into the wrong port on the Compu-Dobby. These were supplied color-coded from the factory, so the solution should be obvious. However, if the color coding is no longer present, count the wire strands in the Eye-Case plug, then compare to the receptical.
The proximity of the sensor to the magnet mounted on the arm may be too far away. The Eye-Case should be adjusted to approximately 2 sheets of paper from the magnet.
The magnet on the arm is backwards. Flip it over.
The arm position sensor or the Compu-Dobby may require repair. Return unit to AVL for repair.
The Compu-Dobby III is configured with a Hall Effects Sensor mounted inside the Compu-Dobby and a magnet mounted on the slide plate. Here are the potential causes:
The proximity of the Hall Effects sensor to the magnet may be wrong due to the magnet/bracket being turned. This is typically easy to decipher as the bracket or magnet will be scraping against the inside of the Compu-Dobby housing.
The magnet on the arm is backwards. Flip it over.
The Hall Effects sensor or the Compu-Dobby may require repair. Return unit to AVL for repair.
Many loom manufacturers sell dobby systems equipped with a computerized mechanism, or a 'computerized dobby.' AVL was the first though, thanks to tremendous efforts by a select few customers and AVL engineers. In fact, AVL beat most power loom manufacturers to market. As for handweaving, AVL has decades of experience over our competition. AVL is proud to call its computerized dobby the Compu-Dobby®, which is a copyrighted trademark owned by AVL.
There are many small differences, but one huge difference. The Compu-Dobby I & II (as well as the mechanical dobby) are positive-type dobbies. The Compu-Dobby III is a 'negative' dobby design. A negative dobby is one where the harness selection is defaulted to lift, whereas in the positive dobby design the harness selection default is not to lift. This sounds like a nebulous discussion for us loom geeks, but this one change enabled Compu-Dobby III-equipped looms to have up to 30% lighter lift! The Compu-Dobby IV is USB connection compatible.
The Serial Port (aka Comm Port) has become a thing of the past for many computers, but fortunately, both new and old Compu-Dobbies can still be connected to your computer via the USB (Universal Serial Bus) Port. While Compu-Dobby IVs have direct USB to USB capability, older dobbies can still be connected via an adapter.
USB can generally be recognized by one of these symbols:
The key to getting the USB Port connected to the Compu-Dobby is through the use of a USB-Serial Adapter. Using this device is relatively easy. There are many, many manufacturers of USB - Serial Adapters. Chief among them are KeySpan (the best for Mac) and Belkin (for the PC), but just google USB-Serial Adapter and let Google or Froogle take you to a host of Web Sites devoted to the device.
Or get one from AVL. We have one that we have had pretty good luck with for both Mac OS X and Windows. If you have a Compu-Dobby I, you may also need this adapter and an RS232 cable to convert from 25 pins to 9.
The way it works (both Mac and Windows):
Here is the order of connection. Plug the USB-Serial Adapter into the computer. Then plug the AVL Compu-Dobby Cable into the Adapter. Last, connect the other end of the AVL Cable into the Compu-Dobby. That's it … well almost.
USB (Mac OS X):
In order to make the USB-Serial Adapter work with your Mac and Compu-Dobby, you must install the software that should have come with the Adapter. Installing the software will allow your software to recognize the USB Adapter. If software, generally in the form of a CD-ROM, didn't come with the unit, then try downloading the driver from the manufacturer's Web Site.
When you go into WeaveMaker, you should see the USB-Serial Port listed under Dobby Port in the Dobby Menu. It is NOT Bluetooth, which comes with the Mac. Then make sure you have the correct AVL Compu-Dobby model I, II, or III chosen in Dobby Type.
Clicking on Dobby Weave should activate the unit.
Sometimes the Mac will inform you that the Serial Port is already in use. In that case then, we advise that you "burp" the unit by disconnecting the USB-Serial Adapter at the USB port. It is OK to do this while the Compu-Dobby and Mac are "hot". The USB is designed to be "hot-swappable" … unplugging and plugging back in will help the Mac to recognize that a USB Port is in use.
In order to make the USB-Serial Adapter work with your PC and Compu-Dobby, you must install the software that should have come with the Adapter. Installing the software will allow your software to recognize the USB Adapter. If software, generally in the form of a CD-ROM, didn't come with the unit, then try downloading the driver from the manufacturer's Web Site.
Install the software and then immediately go to the Device Manager (Control Panel: System: Hardware: Device Manager). About three-quarters of the way down the list of devices, you'll see Ports (Comm & LPT). Clicking on the plus sign will reveal the active ports, one of them should be the USB-Serial Port and it will tell you what Comm Port it has allocated for itself. Generally, it will be Comm 3 or Comm 4, but not all the time.
Next go back to your AVL (or other) software and tell it which Comm Port and which Compu-Dobby you are using. You should be ready to weave.
If you purchased a Keyspan adapter from AVL or elsewhere, you may have trouble getting to the correct COM Port. The latest version of WeavePoint allows COM 1-7. WeaveMaker Mi and older versions of WeavePoint accommodate for COM 1-4 only. However, the Keyspan software will often assign the Keyspan adapter a COM Port number higher than is required by your loom control software. Here's how to make the change.
Step 1 - Ensure that you have installed the latest Keyspan driver software for your adapter
You can download the latest from: http://www.tripplite.com/en/support/downloads
Select Category: Drivers, then Subcategory: Keyspan Products.
Step 2 - Verify the Keyspan COM port in the Keyspan Serial Assistant
To do this, go to the 'Start' menu -> 'Programs' -> 'Keyspan ...' -> Keyspan Serial Assistant. This will open the Keyspan Serial Assistant.
In the Keyspan Serial Assistant, click on the 'Adapter Status' tab. This will show your Keyspan adapter and the current COM port number (i.e. COM4, COM 5, etc.).
Step 3 - Changing the COM port
Click 'Port Mapping' tab. Once you are in the 'Port Mapping' section select or highlight the Keyspan COM port that you wish to change. With your Keyspan COM port highlighted, select the COM port number that you wish to change to from 'COM Port mapping for the selected adapter port' pull down menu.
Important: Please note that you can select any COM port you wish however, you may notice that certain ports are 'in use'. This may mean that there is hardware connected to these COM ports or they have been reserved for the operating system or other software. Changing the COM port mapping to a COM port that is in use may render any hardware and/or software using that port inoperable.
Once you have finished setting up the new COM port number, click on the 'Adapter Status' tab in the Keyspan Serial Assistant to verify your new COM port number.
Changing a COM port is not recommended and can cause serious problems with your computer. The Keyspan software automatically selects the COM port avoiding all those that are 'reserved' by other software/hardware components. For example, if your Keyspan adapter creates COM9, which means that COM1 through COM8 have all been 'reserved'. Reserved COM ports will not show up in the Windows Device Manager and are often tied to software devices (and not physical serial ports). According to the rules of COM port creation, set by Microsoft, any device that creates a COM port must respect 'reserved' COM ports (i.e. if COM8 is 'reserved', a device can't become COM8, that device needs to keep trying COM ports until it finds a 'non-reserved' COM port in the Windows registry).
That being said, the Keyspan software allows you to overwrite 'reserved' COM ports. This is done via the PORT MAPPING tab in the Keyspan Serial Assistant (see above for instructions).
IMPORTANT!!! The Keyspan software will allow you to overwrite 'reserved' COM ports but this can cause serious problems to your computer. This feature is not supported by Keyspan and may not work in all cases depending on the state of your Windows registry. We can provide you information on how to override a COM port but if you have any problems (i.e. like your hard drive being erased or worse), you will have to solve these issues on your own.
Troubleshooting Keyspan Software Info:
This FAQ ASSUMES that: a) your COM port is list in the 'Adapter Status' tab AND b) the same COM port is listed in the 'Port Mapping' tab.
If your Keyspan adapter is NOT listed in the ADAPTER STATUS tab, contact Keyspan and let them know this information. They can troubleshoot the problem from there.
If your Keyspan adapter's COM port is listed in the ADAPTER STATUS tab BUT that COM port is NOT listed in the PORT MAPPING tab, this means that the Keyspan software can't get access to your Windows registry. This can be because a) you don't have Administrator privileges on your Windows 2000/XP computer, b) you have some software preventing the Keyspan software from accessing the Windows registry like a virus/virus protection software/spyware app that aggressively protects the registry/or something similar, OR c) your Windows registry is damaged. If you have this issue, please let Keyspan know if any of these 3 cases apply to you and they will provide further instructions.
Carefully remove your Compu-Dobby® from the loom. Take careful note of the position your current Rabbit Core Module is in (ie: which side faces the top of the loom).
Gently pull the Rabbit Core from the processor board.
Position the new Rabbit Core in the same orientation as the old one and carefully align the pins with the holes on the processor board. Make sure all pins are lined up with all holes. Press the Rabbit Core gently and firmly into place.
Use the photos and video below to help and call AVL if you have any trouble with installation.
The WeavePoint software provided by AVL is different than the demo version; the demo version cannot be licensed as a full version. To enter your license key information in a full version, select the Help Menu and click on About WeavePoint. Next, click on the name box directly below "Licensed to:". A dialog box will open that allows you to input your license key. Please enter your username and license key exactly as they appear since they are case sensitive. Select Ok and you are done.
WeavePoint software requires that you receive updates via email or on CD-ROM from AVL. We will announce WeavePoint updates in our eShuttle Newsletter. Please contact us if you would like to receive the latest version.
There are several different warning messages that you may encounter while installing WeavePoint software.
You may encounter several messages from Windows and possibly your anti-virus software while trying to install WeavePoint on your computer. You should pay attention to these messages and make sure you understand what they mean. While it is extremely rare and we have not yet encountered a virus hidden in any of our software programs, the tiny possibility does exist.
Here are some of the normal messages and their meanings that you might see during installation:
"The file you are downloading seems to be very new or very rare." Your anti-virus software may suggest aborting your connection because it is not familiar with WeavePoint. This is normal, as WeavePoint is a small, niche software that many of the anti-virus programs are not familiar with.
"The publisher could not be verified. Are you sure you want to run this software?" This message is from Microsoft Windows who would like all software to be "verified and signed" by Microsoft at a cost which is not normally paid for and used by smaller software publishers.
"An unidentified program wants to access your computer." This is another message from Microsoft Windows intended to let you know any time a program that does not have a Microsoft Certificate is making changes to your computer. This message is generated by a Windows setting in your computer for User Account Control (UAC).
No, software license keys are not transferable, meaning that you cannot sell, buy, give away or otherwise transfer a license key to someone else. When you purchase WeavePoint or WeaveMaker, the license key is registered to the purchaser, not the loom. Please see the policy terms outlined in your software manual.
We will assist you in arranging shipping with the carrier of your choice. We will provide you a shipping estimate at the time of your purchase. This estimate is subject to change by the carrier and you will be responsible for all shipping costs. We ship via freight carrier, UPS, FedEx and US Postal Service.
We arrange international loom shipments via a freight service provider and ship DAP (Delivered Duty Paid). This means AVL Looms is liable for the shipment, and the shipping cost is paid to us by the customer prior to the shipment. The loom is held at Customs - at which point the customer is contacted to pay VAT and Duty -- until the taxes are paid and then continues on to the final destination.
Most small stock items on our website will ship within 3-5 days. Looms, loom parts and other items (such as Bobbin Winders and Warping Wheels) can take weeks if not in stock. Although we strive to mark these items when they are out of stock, please contact us to inquire about specific items if timing is a concern.
AVL Looms, Inc., a California corporation (“AVL”) warrants to the original purchaser of any AVL loom (each, a "Product") that the Product will be free from defects in materials and workmanship during the limited warranty period described herein. The limited warranty coverage begins (a) the day the Product is installed if installed by a professional from AVL, or (b) on the date of shipment from AVL to the original purchaser if the Product is not installed by AVL (the “Effective Date”). Except as set forth under the section entitled “What is Excluded?” below, AVL will, for a period of two (2) years from the Effective Date (the “Original Warranty Period”), repair or replace the defective part(s) of the Product with a repaired, renewed, or comparable part (whichever is deemed necessary or proper by AVL) if it becomes defective or inoperative or fails to perform according to AVL’s specifications. Any repair during the Original Warranty Period will be carried out without charge to you for parts (except applicable taxes, if any). You will be responsible for all labor in connection with installation of the parts and service upon the Product, as well as the cost of shipping involved.
Accessories, Loom Upgrade Parts, and Replacement Parts:
Subject to the limitation contained in subsection (i) under the section entitled “What is Excluded?” below, AVL warrants to the original purchaser of any accessory, loom upgrade parts, or loom replacement parts (the “Additional Part”) that are sold by AVL that such Additional Part will be free from defects in materials and workmanship for ninety (90) days from the date of purchase. In the event that any Additional Part is physically damaged or physically defective and if such defective Additional Part is returned to AVL within ninety (90) days of the date of purchase, AVL will provide a replacement Additional Part at no charge. The sole remedy for this warranty shall be limited to the replacement of the defective Additional Part. You are responsible for all shipping charges (including applicable taxes) incurred with returning the defective Additional Part.
Subject to the limitation contained in subsection (i) under the section entitled “What is Excluded?” below, AVL warrants to the original purchaser of any physical diskette (or downloaded software) and documentation (“Software Media”) that is sold by AVL that such Software Media will be free from defects in materials and workmanship for ninety (90) days from the date of purchase. In the event that the Software Media is physically damaged or physically defective and if such defective Software Media is returned to AVL within ninety (90) days of the date of purchase, AVL will provide replacement Software Media at no charge. The sole remedy for this warranty shall be limited to the replacement of the defective Software Media. You are responsible for all shipping charges (including applicable taxes) incurred with returning the defective Software Media. To the extent any additional warranty coverage may be available with respect to the Software Media, it is offered by the third-party manufacturer and you must contact them directly.
All New Products and their components (including replacement Product and its components) are covered only for the Original Warranty Period. When the warranty on the original Product or Software Media expires, the warranty on any replacement Product, components, or Software Media also expires. After two (2) years from the Effective Date, you pay for any replacement or repair, including all parts, all labor and shipping charges (including applicable taxes).
Factory Refurbished or Renewed Looms: AVL Looms, Inc., a California corporation (“AVL”) warrants to the original purchaser of any Factory Refurbished or Renewed AVL loom (each, a “Product”) that the Product will be free from defects in materials and workmanship during the limited warranty period described herein. The limited warranty coverage begins (a) the day the Product is installed if installed by a professional from AVL, or (b) on the date of shipment from AVL to the original purchaser if the Product is not installed by AVL (the “Effective Date”). Except as set forth under the section entitled “What is Excluded?” below, AVL will, for a period of one (1) year from the Effective Date (the “Original Warranty Period”), repair or replace the defective part(s) of the Product with a repaired, renewed, or comparable part (whichever is deemed necessary or proper by AVL) if it becomes defective or inoperative or fails to perform according to AVL’s specifications. Any repair during the Original Warranty Period will be carried out without charge to you for parts (except applicable taxes, if any). You will be responsible for all labor in connection with installation of the parts and service upon the Product, as well as the cost of shipping involved.
Factory Refurbished or Renewed Accessories, Loom Upgrade Parts, and Replacement Parts: Subject to the limitation contained in subsection (i) under the section entitled “What is Excluded?” below, AVL warrants to the original purchaser of any factory refurbished or renewed accessory, loom upgrade parts, or loom replacement parts (the “Additional Part”) that are sold by AVL that such Additional Part will be free from defects in materials and workmanship for ninety (90) days from the date of purchase. In the event that any Additional Part is physically damaged or physically defective and if such defective Additional Part is returned to AVL within ninety (90) days of the date of purchase, AVL will provide a replacement Additional Part at no charge. The sole remedy for this warranty shall be limited to the replacement of the defective Additional Part. You are responsible for all shipping charges (including applicable taxes) incurred with returning the defective Additional Part.
All Refurbished or Renewed Products and their components (including replacement Product and its components) are covered only for the Original Warranty Period. When the warranty on the original Product expires, the warranty on any replacement Product, or components also expires. After one (1) year from the Effective Date, you pay for any replacement or repair, including all parts, all labor and shipping charges (including applicable taxes).
1. Labor charges for installation or set-up of the Product, as well as any labor charges required to install, disassemble, troubleshoot, or reassemble the Product.
2. Any taxes imposed on AVL for Product replacement or repair under this warranty.
3. Installation, performance of, or repair of: cabling, electrical, or accessory attachments used with the Product.
4. Product replacement or repair because of misuse, accident, repair by any party other than AVL, or other cause not within the control of AVL. Please note that removing any parts from the Product for any reason voids the warranty.
5. Incidental or consequential damages resulting from the Product.
6. A Product that has been modified or adapted to enable it to operate in any country other than the United States or any repair of Products damaged by these modifications.
7. Electrical and pneumatic components, each of which carries a one (1) year warranty from the Effective Date.
8. Jacquard components function beyond 98%. A Jacquard module is considered to be operating within specification if 98% of all hooks are operating as commanded.
9. Computing equipment, such as a Personal Digital Assistant or a Personal Computer, which are manufactured by a third party(ies) and which may be under warranty through the original manufacturer. AVL is not responsible for any warranty coverage that may be offered concerning these products and you must contact those manufacturers directly regarding any available warranty coverage.
10. The performance or functionality of any software that is sold either together or separate from the Product. The AVL warranty covers only defects in the Software Media, namely the CD-ROM media such as a broken CD-ROM or a defect in the CD-ROM that would prevent the CD-ROM from being read by your personal computer's CD-ROM drive.
Unfulfilled orders for standard equipment may be cancelled up to 45 days after order placement. Eligible deposits are fully refundable, less 15% re-stocking fee on the total price of the cancelled equipment and handling charges. Cancellation is not allowed after 45 days and therefore deposits are not eligible for refund. Deposits on custom equipment are not eligible for refund under any circumstances.
If you cancel at least 30 days ahead of the scheduled class date, you may "roll over" and apply 100% of your class deposit toward a future class or request a refund less a 10% administration fee. Full class payment is due 30 days from the scheduled class date. As a courtesy to other class participants and our teaching staff, if you cancel less than 30 days ahead of the scheduled class date, your full payment will be forfeited and no refund or credit will be given.
Any order that has left AVL in transit to the customer is considered fulfilled. Parts and accessories not covered under warranty must be returned to AVL within 60 days from the date of shipment from AVL. The purchase price of the item(s) is refundable less a 15% re-stocking fee based on the total purchase price. No refunds will be given on shipping or handling. The buyer is responsible to return the merchandise in "as new" condition at their expense. Any item received showing wear or damage is not eligible for return and will be promptly returned to the customer COD unless some other arrangement is made. Looms and custom-made items, special order items, parts made for pre-1998 looms, used and reconditioned items are not eligible for return.
MAKE SURE YOU KEEP: Please keep your sales receipt or other documentation showing proof of purchase.
USB Driver Type: VCP driver creates a virtual serial port using a COM number. D2XX creates a direct serial port.
For either driver type, click on the link to find the driver for your operating system by scrolling down to the table that lists currently supported VCP or D2XX drivers.
VCP: WeavePoint and Fiberworks use this driver, which requires the user to select the correct COM port number.
D2XX: AVLDrive v.1 and WeavePoint use this driver. We recommend downloading the setup executable file in the notes on the right side of the page for a quicker way to install both VCP and D2XX drivers a Windows computer. NOTE: Do not use the setup executable if attempting to install only the VCP driver for Fiberworks.
This section is provided for convenience. It is recommended that you check the official Tripplite page for the Keyspan drivers, here.
NOTE: AVL recommends the Keyspan USA-19HS for the Compu-Dobby I, II, III, III+ and IV 9 or 25 pin serial to USB conversions. The Keyspan USA-19HS uses the TI USB chipset, which with its drivers has proven to work reliably. We DO NOT recommend using any USB-serial adapter with the Prolific USB chipset, as they are notoriously unreliable.
Download the Keyspan USA-19HS driver corresponding to your operating system below: